Just So You Know

Earlier this week my university’s international studies coordinator emailed the people on my internship program. Many had failed to turn in their mandatory reports, including the other USC intern at my organization. My coordinator was annoyed; he made this abundantly clear in the email.

He also seemed to think that some interns were not taking enough cultural risks. The other intern was rather peeved that the email was so direct. But, it made me examine my own behavior.

Instead of simply parting as I could anywhere else, I pride myself on getting to know where I travel.  My coordinator urged students to lose themselves in a neighborhood and discover as its streets unfold. I did that two weekends ago.

Actually, I got a bit more lost than I’d have liked. I stupidly assumed that I could walk from Bangkok’s Silom district to the Grand Palace. I got hopelessly lost. However, along the way I saw discovered a new side of Bangkok. On winding streets near the river I meandered past old wooden households in front of open canals. This was the essence of the city before the development of the late 20^th century. Five hours later, I arrived at the royal residence too tired to see the Emerald Buddha temple. But that was ok. I’d already seen many local temples. My USC counterparts had not.

My coordinator also opined that you have not truly seen a country until you’ve been invited to a native’s home. Incidentally, I was. After teaching English at Huay Sala School, the English teacher took us to dinner. He told us that he would be happy to have us as guests in his home amid the rice paddies. He also gave us his contact information. Unfortunately, I did not have time to follow up.

Still, I wondered if I’d gotten out of my comfort zone. I only saw so much on my walk because I was suspicious of taking a taxi. This isn’t because I’ve heard horrible stories about Bangkok cabbies. Eastern European drivers would rip a foreigner off. I’ve stayed at friends’ apartments in the region as well.

I haven’t taken a hired motorbike, eaten street food, or made much of an effort to learn the language. The last is odd. I usually pick up languages quickly. Thai is one of the harder tongues I’ve encountered. But, I can’t help but wonder if there’s something else at work. I’ve been to over 40 countries. Maybe, I’m starting to view myself like the children at some schools my organization sponsors view me:

‘Here one day; gone the next. Why is it worth the effort’?

 That doesn’t mean I’ll stop traveling. It’s good to get a wakeup call every once in a while. My coordinator’s email may have annoyed some others. For me it was a reminder: Never be too set in your ways. Never become too jaded.  

From Head to Toe

I travel a lot. Obviously, this means I have to adapt to different cultures. I’d like to think I’ve gotten rather good at this. However, Thailand has presented more of a challenge than many other countries.

Most of the differences are simply amusing. They remind me of why I travel. Only in south-east Asia would you see signs telling metro passengers to give up their seats to Buddhist monks.  At times, it can be almost surreal to see warnings that forbid durian in the subways (complete with picture of the fruit and superimposed red X) right next to signs which causally say no smoking.

Other differences are more serious -- and more problematic. Thai Buddhism places importance on covering your legs.  From my outsiders perspective, having to wear long pants in 30 degree heat while up-country sometimes seems impractical. Still, I’m sure there’s a reason why traditional Buddhists believe it’s important. Members of many university groups we accompany wear short pants. The villagers do not seem offended.  Acquaintances told me that the average Thai won’t get up-set if someone breaks a taboo; especially if the offender is a westerner who is unlikely to be aware of its existence.

Still, it pays to be as culturally sensitive as one can. In my experience, Thai culture does demand strict adherence to traditional norms in certain situations. In Bangkok, no one really cares what kind of pants people ware.  Yet, on my first attempt to visit the Grand Palace I was turned way for wearing shorts. I returned the next day in proper attire. I stood in the rear of the stunning Emerald Buddha temple, not wanting to risk showing my feet to the altar while sitting. In return, a guard yelled at me in Thai.

  He may have taken issue with the physical location of my head.  This aspect of Thai culture has given me some trouble before.  On one sponsor visit, I attended a student presentation in a local school library. The visitors sit cross-legged on the floor while the students present. I’ve hated sitting on the floor ever since kindergarten. This was the second time I’d seen the presentation, and I was tired. So, I sat on a couch in the corner. My supervisor’s boss came over and physically pushed me onto the floor. A Thai-American intern later explained that this was because my head was much higher than those of the sponsors and high-ranking school administrators. This is considered disrespectful in Thailand.  I’m still trying to understand this concept.  After all, the students were standing. Their heads were higher than mine!