From Head to Toe

I travel a lot. Obviously, this means I have to adapt to different cultures. I’d like to think I’ve gotten rather good at this. However, Thailand has presented more of a challenge than many other countries.

Most of the differences are simply amusing. They remind me of why I travel. Only in south-east Asia would you see signs telling metro passengers to give up their seats to Buddhist monks.  At times, it can be almost surreal to see warnings that forbid durian in the subways (complete with picture of the fruit and superimposed red X) right next to signs which causally say no smoking.

Other differences are more serious -- and more problematic. Thai Buddhism places importance on covering your legs.  From my outsiders perspective, having to wear long pants in 30 degree heat while up-country sometimes seems impractical. Still, I’m sure there’s a reason why traditional Buddhists believe it’s important. Members of many university groups we accompany wear short pants. The villagers do not seem offended.  Acquaintances told me that the average Thai won’t get up-set if someone breaks a taboo; especially if the offender is a westerner who is unlikely to be aware of its existence.

Still, it pays to be as culturally sensitive as one can. In my experience, Thai culture does demand strict adherence to traditional norms in certain situations. In Bangkok, no one really cares what kind of pants people ware.  Yet, on my first attempt to visit the Grand Palace I was turned way for wearing shorts. I returned the next day in proper attire. I stood in the rear of the stunning Emerald Buddha temple, not wanting to risk showing my feet to the altar while sitting. In return, a guard yelled at me in Thai.

  He may have taken issue with the physical location of my head.  This aspect of Thai culture has given me some trouble before.  On one sponsor visit, I attended a student presentation in a local school library. The visitors sit cross-legged on the floor while the students present. I’ve hated sitting on the floor ever since kindergarten. This was the second time I’d seen the presentation, and I was tired. So, I sat on a couch in the corner. My supervisor’s boss came over and physically pushed me onto the floor. A Thai-American intern later explained that this was because my head was much higher than those of the sponsors and high-ranking school administrators. This is considered disrespectful in Thailand.  I’m still trying to understand this concept.  After all, the students were standing. Their heads were higher than mine!