Sunday, August 25, 2013

Suspended Shoes. And A Dive Fin.

Not exactly the ghetto
 South Hills area is a pretty stable place. I grew up there. My upbringing afforded a background of education and culture. To say it provided a limited sense of street life is a gross understatement. I haven’t seen most other areas of Los Angles. But, I’ve been to countries that most US citizens will never experience.  To say it plainly, my life’s produced a person of sheltered bombast when it comes to some things. One who wouldn’t have it any other way. Look no further than this post for evidence.
Now, I’m going to talk about Belize. You could think that the above paragraph has nothing to do with this. Or that it served merely as an excuse to pontificate about my favorite subject. And you’d be right. At least in part. Belize isn’t South Hills. Nor is it Poland, Luxembourg, or Europe in general for that matter. It does happen to be located in Central America. That was about the extent of my expectations as I boarded the plane.   
Observing the cayes of Belize 
Upon arrival in Caye Caulker what I found reflected my concept of Caribbean island culture. This isn’t surprising. The place happens to be a Caribbean island.  Still, I found some aspects a bit novel. Caye Caulker attracts tourists. However, it remains relatively undeveloped.  The island has three dirt roads. There’s one stop sign and a few stores and street vendors. Pools are a rarity. The standard of living didn’t shock me. The way of life stood out.
It’s impossible to spend any time at all on Caye Caulker without noticing the prevalence of deadlocked bohemians who live there. ts also hard to ignore the presence of what can go along with them: marijuana.  I’ve spent time in countries where a third of the population is addicted to opiates. This was my first experience being anywhere near drug culture.
An island thoroughfare
 Drugs are illegal in Belize. Caye Caulker’s local constabulary expends great effort making this abundantly clear to anyone who visits by posting a sign on their office. We noticed the effectiveness of police measures from our fist day.
My mother worked as a reporter for many years. She’s been to some of the downtrodden neighborhoods that I’ve never seen. After our arrival she pointed out a pair of sneakers hanging form an electrical line. “That means you can buy drugs there” she educated. I looked around and noticed 6 other pairs suspended in front of various establishments. The practice seems so obviously unusual as to draw law enforcement attention. I’d still find in implausible if I could think of any other ostensible reason why one would wish to hang shoes from a utilities line.
The in-your-face-ness of it doesn’t stop there. After 8 at night it’s difficult to walk down the street without being propositioned to purchase some ganja. It’s so blatant that we thought it must be a police setup. Then we saw the substance changing hands between a dealer and a boy of about 10 years. If you want it. You can get it.      
Heading to the Blue Hole
I ended up getting high before my time in Belize was up. No drugs involved. The diving is noteworthy. It can act like a drug. To produce aforementioned effect, take one Great Blue Hole and a dive tank. Descend past sharks to 135 ft. (40 meters). Remain submerged amid stalactites for roughly 6 minutes or until the nitrogen in your blood starts making this underwater world seem really slow and awesome. You can even add the Belizean booby reserve as a bonus afterword!  Minor side note: this process could possibly be incredibly dangerous and may include negligible side effects such as death. In fact, it would probably be a lot safer to just go back to Caye Caulker and smoke some weed.  Its not like the cops appear to care anyway.

View from the balcony
Don’t get me wrong. The ‘herbs’ aren’t the be all of Belize. The coast is beautiful and the diving amazing. The street vendors too relaxed to be pushy. The cuisine served seaside in front of peoples’ homes.  These aspects seem to coexist with the shoes hanging above it all. And yet, I keep waiting for the other shoe to drop. This life is positively unique; what I saw seemed real. Almost too real in a way. Unbelizeable, if you prefer the pun that’s used all over the island. I’ll always remember Belize’s teaming reefs and the tropical view from our 3rd floor apartment. But, what will always make Belize different in my mind is the bohemianness going on in the street below.  Its nice for a change. Especially when viewed by this sheltered know-it-all.