Monday, June 14, 2010

Moldova: small, but fun




My first day in Moldova was a whirlwind of sleep deprived sightseeing; I got off the train, found my hotel, and its on-site travel agency. I had an amazing lunch at a nearby restaurant, and in no time was off on a tour to the Circova Winery. The entire winery is situated about 15 km north of Chisinau. My driver drove me down into the series of about 150km worth of underground tunnels, some of which are more than a football field underground. The tunnels were originally limestone mines. The entire wine making and fermentation process takes place here. I was shown the fermentation and bottling process of Circova’s famous Spumant, or sparkling wine. It involves turning each bottle of produce by hand every day for weeks. A group of three Italians joined me , and we were taken to the cellars where the fine wine collections are kept. I was shown the collection of the second in command under Hitler, as well as the private collection of Vladimir Putin. Cricova also has the world’s oldest bottle of wine, a bottle of 1902 Easter Wine. It is the only bottle left in existence. I was shown the newly renovated tasting rooms, and the tour concluded with a taste of the winery’s product.
That afternoon I saw the center of Chisinau. Very little survived WWII, but the city is still very green, claiming to be the 3rd greenest capital city in the world, and has some beautiful Soviet-era buildings. It was very hot in Chisinau, but I stayed out sightseeing until 9pm. I stopped on the way back from my hotel at a crêpe restraint to pick up dessert.
Next morning I took private tour of Orhei Vichi. My guide was very friendly and taught me lot about the history, culture and political situation of the country. Orhei Vici This location is widely considered the most spectacular locale in Moldova for a reason. It consists of a deep but wide river canyon, a cave monastery and, and a local village, that calls the area home. The tour started with a stop at the ruins of a 13th century tartar fortress. My guide showed me around the cave monastery, including the church and the church and the monk’s cells. I had the chance to climb to the church’s copula (at the top of the hill) and make a wish on its cross, as is the tradition. We then walked through the village, and ate berries off of the fruit trees growing in the area.
That afternoon, I took a walk to the monument to the victory of the Red Army over the Nazis. The Park is very large with a number of socialist realist reliefs, and a flame burning in the middle. The park itself is a sight to behold, but what makes it truly amazing is that, whereas most monuments of its kind have been abandoned, this one is still in full operation. The flame is surrounded by flowers, and guarded by Moldovan soldiers. A wedding party was taking their wedding pictures there while I was in the park. It was a living time capsule and one of the most amazing Soviet sights I have ever seen. That evening I enjoyed another crepe with the U.S. v. England World Cup Match.
Sunday was my last day in Moldova, my train left at 4 but before departing I wanted to take look at one of it’s main lake-parks. I got lost, but was glad I did. I had an amazing walk. I found an unnamed, rather large park at the top of the hill, about a mile from the city center. and was able to get some spectacular views of the city, I then headed into the park. What I found inside represented a clash between the rural and Urban. Brand new mansions, situated next to farming huts with small farming plots and chickens, were situated along the park's edge. Further into the park, the foliage became so thick at points that the path disappeared, and then at random intervals, gave way into seemingly isolated rural mini-villages. I even saw cows grazing. About another 100 yards ahead, through a narrow path by a pristine stream, the way opened onto the lake I was looking for , surrounded by housing complexes, city joggers, luxury cars… And a farmer herding goats!
After this walk, I had one final lunch at a completely local restaurant, away from the main roads. They only had a few items on the menu, but they were cheap, excellent, and the service was good. I bought some snacks for the train at the former state-run department store and then got on the train back to Bucharest. I arrived exhausted, but immensely glad I went. I have wanted to go to Moldova for years, and it did not disappoint. The country is undeserving of its bad reputation. I intend to return.

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