Saturday, October 1, 2011

Arts and Culture

During my first month in Budapest much of what I have learned about the Hungarian world view has been through their fine arts. My journey into the Magyar mentality began, as much does, in the Opera house. I had decided at the last minute attend the performance of a Hungarian opera entitled "Bank Ban" or The Viceroy Bank. Judging by the sheer number of dark themes, the opera was the darkest I have seen to date. It dealt with corruption, betrtrayal, rape, revenge, murder, infanticide, suicide, and plain simple death, in the space of just 3 hours. Unlike in many Slavic cultures there does not seem to be much glory in such suffering.
Even more interesting, was the attitude that Hungarians have to the production itself. The following evening I accompanied my landlady, a pianist, to a performance of the National Philharmonic. We took the tramwaj to the venue, along with one of her friends, a violinist in the concert. Instead of focusing on the Magyar national opera company's many strengths, he baselessly complained that it was inferior to Vienna's. Having seen both companies preform, it is my experience that, euro for euro, the opposite is true. They also told me that Magyar National Opera was in talks with Placido Domingo to bring the opera I had seen to LA, but that such talks were halted when LA Opera ran out of money. While they did bitterly complain about such mis-fortunates, it is important to note that the also warmly joked that exporting the opera was unnecessary as LA, in the person of myself, had come to them.
At the concert, one of the featured pieces was a suite from Bartok's ballet "The Miraculous Mandarin." Among other things, it dealt with the suffering of city-dwellers, through the main character of a whore, during the industrial revolution. During the intermission we discussed the present day implications of the piece. I pointed out that the subject matter and music, while avant-garde when it was premiered, fails to raise an eyebrow in the present day. This points to the increased callousness of man. My landlady agreed, but pointed out that, within the story, what positives there are remain timeless.
It seems to me that the Hungarians take a long term view when it comes to their philosophy of life. While the world inevitably gets worse over time, within those negatives one can always find reason to make life worth living. As I responded while the lights dimmed for the second movement "The more things change, the more they stay the same" Ironically, this is this mentality from which Hungary draws it's comfort.

Visiting Parliament

Two years ago I spent a week visiting Budapest as a tourist. Unfortunately, during this short amount of time I did not have a chance to take the tour of Budapest's famous parliament building. Last weekend, I had some time to finally take the tour.
It is not a easy matter to get on one of the guided tours of the building. It is still Hungary's functioning parliament and because of security concerns, finally gaining admittance to the building can involve hours of waiting. I decided to take the tour in Spanish because I did not have to wait quite so long for the next available tour. Even then I walked around the city for about 3 hours until the time that tour was to begin, but the wait was well worth it. Here are a few of the factual highlights:
  • When the Hungarian parliament was built over 100 years ago, it was one of the most advanced in the world, featuring electricity, central heating and in the summer months, air conditioning. This was accomplished by blowing air over several tons of ice which had to be brought in every day.
  • The parliament is the third largest in the world, after the buildings in Argentina and Romania. Like Romania's Palace of Parliament ( see earlier posts) all the materials used to build it are domestic products.
  • The main rotunda houses the crown jewels of Hungary, they are rumored to be 1000 years old and used in the coronation of St. Stephen, Hungary's first king. The Hungarian state apparently will not allow the carbon dating of the crown to confirm this.
  • Currently Hungary has a uni-camiral legislature. However at the time of the parliament's construction the country had dominion over Slovakia and Serbia, necessitating two houses of parliament. The quarters of the lower house are still used and are not open to visitors. Those of the upper house feature elaborate brass cigar holders outside the entrance to the chambers. They were numbered so that your cigar could be changed while parliament was in session.
  • You can now rent the upper house's chambers for private functions. It costs many thousands of euros per hour.
While the tour was shorter than I expected. I found the building itself to be beautiful, and the tour informative, although a bit comedic. When some Argentinians in the group volunteered in their accent that the largest parliament in the world was in fact in Romania. The guide responded first by joking "Hey, We're speaking Spanish here!" proving a laugh from all present, including the Argentinians.